We Are Big Babies

The meal of rice and lentils was done.  It was bedtime.  But we weren’t going to bed.  Uncle Larry sat on the saggy couch across from us, sprawled out like he just ran 26 miles.

“Is it late enough to go now, Larry?”

“No, they are still awake.  They are like men, milling around until they are tired.  Then they sleep.”

I sharpen my spear with a whetstone, while Ryan whittles his down with a file to create a better tip.  Larry is studying my rubber sling, which is far more inferior than his hand-made spear gun.  Soon it is 11:00 pm, and we decide the fish are sleeping now.

We walk down the road and pass Kiyus’s mom. 

“You are spearfishing?” She asked curiously and somewhat suspiciously.  “Make sure and come back before midnight, or they will come and get you.”

We all look at each other.  We quickly established an unspoken agreement that we would be back before midnight. 

The ocean was dimly lit by a half moon, and we could see a storm brewing on the northern horizon.  All of a sudden we felt much less brave than we did when we were talking back at the apartment.

Tyler speaks up.  “What if this is a big local prank?  Like they say that the fishing is best at midnight, and they are all hiding under the water waiting to scare us now.” 

For some reason, this seemed rather logical at the moment.

Our catch of the night.  Slow progress is still progress!

We could see the dark motion of waves breaking past the reef hundreds of feet out, which marked our destination.  Tyler had his one waterproof light, but its beam almost made it worse by illuminating the swaying seaweed and creepy sea cucumbers under the water.  We waded out farther and farther, and finally decided to don our snorkels. 

“You have to go under first.”

“You’re the one with the light, you go.”

“I’m not going first, you big babies.”

Finally we all submerged our masks and looked out under the inky black open ocean.  Somehow we all started laughing in our snorkels, and popped back out from under the water.

“What are we even doing right now?  This is definitely a local prank.”

Despite our timid-ness to the black ocean, we loaded our spears and closely followed the one beam of light.  We saw some shady fish were leaning up against an old scummy rock, smoking cigarettes and shooting the breeze.  Some were scowling at us and slurred foul language.  There was a nightclub playing loud music under a nearby rock, and fish were drunkenly stumbling out and whistling down an eel to take them home. 

The ocean is a different place at night.

Ryan thought that chilled underwear would be refreshing

Finally we spot a lone fish swimming slowly under a rock.  I load my spear and nail it, just as a breaker hits me and washes my away.  I frantically swim back to it, and after a few seconds I get it out of the water, strung through my spear.  Tyler swam a few feet ahead and accidentally kicked a sleeping fish.  They both shared an awkward moment, and Tyler loaded his spear and got his fish.  Sauntering back proudly to the school, we carried our catch and fried them up that night.  We had conquered the dark ocean and its sketchy nocturnal inhabitants. 

This morning we had big plans.  We got up late, slowly made breakfast, had a post breakfast nap, and then finally got our act together.  Armed with our machetes, we set out on another brave and dangerous endeavor, one that only the manliest men could accomplish.

Clearing our garden plot

We were making a garden.

After tons of hacking in the muddy tall grass, fighting off biting ants, and watching Uncle Larry yet again show us up in machete skills, we formed a patch of dirt that will soon be a vegetable garden.  In the humidity, we probably each sweated three Nalgene’s worth, and were covered with mud.  But it was nothing a good dip in the ocean couldn’t fix.

This evening was the going-away potluck for the evangelistic speaker.  It was a classic Kosraen feast, with lots of rice, soup, fried fish, salad, cucumbers, pies, coconut biscuits, papaya, fried rice, fried chicken, noodles, island pizza, potatoes, and other delicious things.  After the feast, we began a ceremony that included the giving of gifts from the women, and some songs and regards by the locals.  They gave them their heartfelt thanks and gave the speaker’s family the best they could offer.  Crafts, a feast, songs, and genuine words of thanks, and a special prayer where we all held hands around them and sang a song to bid them farewell, and that we may meet in heaven again.  Namy, one of the church elders, came and sat next to me.

becoming one with our machetes

“You know, we will do this for you when you leave.  A big feast, lots of gifts, and everything!  My brother is getting ivory stone to carve for you as a gift when you all leave.  Do you want a dolphin or a manta ray?  And I will have the women sew skirts for the girls in your family if you like.  Just let me know how many!”

 At the same time, a local came and dropped a heavy bag of tangerines at our feet, as well as some fresh bananas for us to take home.  Some of the 1^st graders were jumping on my lap, wanting to play “Trot Trot the Boss” again, laughing as I tried to speak in Kosraen to them and sticking a leafy branch in my face every time I messed up.  The evening was festive, and the Kosrean hospitality was in full display.

How am I going to do this.

How will I be able to leave?  These people are becoming my family.  

I looked over at Uncle Larry in the corner, merrily singing along to the music.  This man has shown the most selflessness out of anyone I know.  From the moment we arrived nervous and shy, he has invited us full range to his tangerine and coconut trees and would stop his work to show us how to make palm baskets, and always invites us to eat with him even though food is expensive.  He gave us a plot of land to make a garden with, and stops whatever he is doing to come and swim with us in the evenings.  He wants to make sure we have everything we need and is always willing to help with anything we ask.  The most amazing thing is that it is all done with a bright smile.  He WANTS to do it.  He never asks for anything in return. 

Reminds me of someone.

Peace from the tropics,

-River