"Don't shine your light into the water, it makes the swordfish go crazy."
I don't really know what a crazy swordfish does, but if there was any animal I wouldn't want to go crazy it would be a swordfish.
With all lights off, it is pitch black. I steady myself on the hull of our small boat while the little 30 HP yamaha engine sputtered to life, sending us out of the harbor and into the dark, open Pacific. I look down beside me where the hull stirs up the warm equatorial water, and hundreds of bioluminescent creatures light up before my eyes, accompanying the reflection of a billion stars from above. Beside me, the pastor and the guide are speaking merrily in Kosraen to each other as his flashlight beam occasionally catches a swordfish jumping out of the water in front of us.
I have a brief picture in my head of a swordfish jumping into my lap in the pitch darkness.
After scooting back on the boat a few feet, I watch the black outline of thick mangroves move past on the shore. To my right, the pastor is silhouetted against a breathtaking display of the Milky Way Galaxy, stretching from horizon to horizon over the great dark ocean.
After about 45 minutes, we finally beach at a little village called Walung. Walung lies at the southwest corner of Kosrae, a place only accessible by boat at high tide. There is no electricity or road, but the beaches are pristine and the whole scene belongs in a calendar. We unload the boat of the coolers and the generator the pastor brought and wade to the sandy beach. Locals emerge from a little path coming out of the jungle greeting us with "ekewo"'s, and we are led up the short path from the beach to a local shack with a palm roof, where the owner is making tea and offering biscuits and rolls. Gladly accepting, we sit on the sandy ground with the pastor and our new friend from the Philippines (who joined us on monday as the bible worker), talking about our home countries, the prices in the Philippines, Obama, and the oppression of SDA's in parts of the world.
After maps of the U.S.A and the Philippines were drawn out in the sand before us, it was time for bed. Tyler and I grabbed our Eno hammocks and set course for a couple palm trees we saw on the beach upon our arrival. The warm wind gently swung our hammocks high in the palms as we drifted off into a tropical sleep, lulled by the breeze, the sound of the waves, and the pastel moon filtering through the clouds.
I wake up suddenly. There is an unusual breeze. The surf sounds rough.
Ahh, no.
A single raindrop hits me in the eye, as if nature was saying "Ha! You think you could last a night outside in the tropics? Well, here's a rainstorm!"
Sure enough, it started to pour. I jump out of my hammock and unclip it from the straps and dash across the dark beach towards the palm shack. I am instantly soaked in my white t-shirt, and my hammock and bedding didn't fair any better. For some reason the pastor is up, messing with the generator.
I look at my watch. 4:30 AM.
"Too much rain, eh?"
"Yep," I reply as I squeegee out my shirt. For once in my 2 months here I felt genuinely cold and shivered in my drenched clothes. We sat under the palm cover and made light conversation. A land crab scurries across the flooded sand in front of us.
"That crab is called a Kuluk. Legend says that whenever someone kills that kind of crab, it rains," the pastor remarks.
"So perhaps Tyler stepped on one while getting into his hammock?" I suggest.
Then, speak of the devil, Tyler comes bounding up the path, also soaked to the bone.
We lay back under the cover on the plywood floor, trying to warm up and wait out the rain.
"It is almost sunrise, look the sky," the pastor points out after a while.
Sure enough, the sky had lightened enough to where we could see the outline of the palms against the cloudy sky. Soon, the locals that came with us on the boat began stirring under their blankets, and the next thing we knew we were eating a breakfast of cold cereal and Kosraen donuts. I look at the box of cereal, which I know must have been expensive. On the cover it read:
"Fruity Wheels"
"You only pay for the taste!"
Soooo......wait what?
After breakfast, some of the folks go out to net fish while we decide to swim out to a tiny island that we passed on last night's boat ride. The pastor and Winey (the philippino) join us on a big, foam panel that we use as a stand-up paddle board and push with a stick. It is pouring rain again, but we are wet anyways. Upon arrival to the island, we "dominate it" by climbing up the steep side and thrashing through the thick jungle to the other side where we all almost biff it down a small cliff hidden by brush. Feeling like fearless explorers, Tyler then proceeds to try and hack open a coconut with a VERY dull machete, and we all are entertained as he drops it off of our "raft" twice.
We reach land again and do some more exploring on the land. A primitive cliffside stone staircase leads us up above the ocean, and I was a little disappointed to find a school building instead of a wise elder sitting cross-legged at the entrance to a cave, ready to impart wisdom upon me.
We go back to the shack for a meal of rice and freshly-caught reef fish and prepare for our journey home. We all almost fall asleep on the deck of our little boat while we speed home at 5 MPH through the reef. Sleep was welcomed that night, and I dreamt about cereal. "You only pay for the taste" cereal.
My class was very pleased to have the day off yesterday, due to UN day. I'm not sure anyone on this island knows exactly what we are celebrating, but no one is going to argue. Today's lesson plan was interrupted by Murson's parents knocking at my classroom door.
"Hello, can I help you?" I poke my head out of my classroom.
"Yes, it is Murson's birthday today, and we brought some treats for the class! Is now a good time?"
Moments later, I see a giant cake and a whole case of cola parade past out window. The kids go NUTS. As I watch my class gobble up cake and drink whole cans of caffeinated soda, I am thankful that I only have one class left. I know that I have precious moments before the sugar and pure energy enters their bloodstream.
"Ok, class! We are going to do our spelling test as quickly as possible! Put your cake aside for just a moment. Number one...."
I see Vilana twitching. Time is running out.
"Number one is Basketball! Number two......."
I look up. Mitchigo is standing on top of her desk.
"Numberthree! Thewordiswheelchair!" I frantically recite.
I
blaze through the words, just in time. By cleanup time, Kokok is ricocheting around the room, narrowly missing my head. Faces are smothered in frosting, and Annesha is asking for more cake through a mouthful of cake. The class bursts into a spontaneous rendition of "Do Lord" while Holter is once again dust-mopping himself on the floor.
Finally, we are quiet. We barely make it through The Lord's Prayer before the students literally launch out of the classroom doors and probably into outer space.
Needless to say, I know what I am going to offer Ryan and Tyler's classes on April Fool's Day.
Peace from the tropics,
-River